Raining snakes and the Chiang Mai Squirrel Highway

Critics place your comments here. Best Place in Chiang Mai Cafe

Critics place your comments here. Best Place in Chiang Mai Cafe

After writing yesterdays missive, I was walking back to our room and about to cross a small lane when something green landed to my right with a splat. A snake had fallen out of the power lines, and tried to race across the road, only to get caught up in a guy’s motorbike wheel. He screeched to a halt, the snake disentangled itself, and as I stood there having my own personal heart attack, it wriggled madly over to a huge pottery jar on the other corner. I had gone cold all over and stayed like that for a full minute. I’m not sure who got the biggest fright – me, the motorbike rider or the snake… Like heck was I going to go and see if the snake was alright – wriggling like it did, it was obviously fairly alive anyway. I Did get away from the power lines in case there were more, and kind of slinked home hoping nothing else would drop into my life for a visit. Continue reading

Dragonflies, Ruins, Geckos and Ice Cream

Buddhas at Old Sukhothai

Buddhas at Old Sukhothai

I forgot to mention that we saw many flooded fields on the way into Sukhothai. Miles and miles of flooding, as mentioned in the newspaper in Bangkok. Those poor farmers – it could be half a year’s crop ruined just because of a dam overflow.I woke up to find that I had tie dyed my bed sheet and white singlet a lovely pink. I had wet my sarong last night to lie under with the fan blowing over it (Rough-As-Guts air conditioning) and the dye transferred. I’ll have to go and humbly fess up to the owners and probably pay for another sheet. Bl*ddy India and its dye jobs! Our beds were apparently made in a quarry somewhere – we have maximum one inch worth of mattress on top of what cruelly looks like another soft mattress but is actually the consistency of slate. This goes nicely with the wooden bed frames that you kick your toe or leg against once an hour or so. Continue reading

Old Sukhothai – Ancient Capitals and a Kid Called Chocolate

Cool tree at the Old Sukhothai ruins.

Cool tree at the Old Sukhothai ruins.

This mornings breakfast report – yummy green curry that wasn’t quite as deadly as the last one, rice porridge, lil’ baby sausages, and somehow those fried pastry things with condensed milk on managed to get onto our plates again as well. Perusing the newspaper, the headlines read; ‘Muslims flee Western Myanmar  – 25 killed, 40 injured’, ‘Police exam declared invalid after cheating’ and ‘Flood sends villages fleeing – Sukhothai hit as Yom River gives way’ – precisely the place we were heading to. Righto, possibly a canoe will be required. We hadn’t heard of any transportation cancellations or anything, so off we set. Continue reading

Curry for Breakfast and Frogs on Sticks

Rambutan fruit

Rambutan fruit

So, today started with rice porridge, green curry, baby sausages and fried dough with condensed milk. And lots of coffee – which we discovered yesterday is not in the actual coffee pot but in a large urn to the side, which in all fairness does have a sign with ‘Coffee’ stuck to it. After gargling a large mouthful of tea yesterday – which normally I would not drink if you held a rifle to my back – I was very careful to get it right this morning. We also discovered yesterday that a harmless looking breakfast curry may indeed not actually be so. But the fruits that look like eggs sitting in a red spiky-looking case taste very like mild-tasting grapes. All is not as it seems here… Continue reading

Two Kiwi Locals go to Bangkok

Leaving New Zealand

Leaving New Zealand

The day started with a bit of drama. I was about to leave for the Auckland airport when I got a call from Ursula –  she’d left her passport at home. The race was on for her partner’s dad to grab the passport and meet them half way to deliver it. Traces of The Amazing Race for her. Long story short – she made it. And crucially, just in time to grab a bit of duty free liquor along the way. She has her priorities straight this girl – I’m going to like travelling with her, I can tell. Continue reading

2012 – Another crack at Thailand and Serendipity at its Finest.

Well, I’m off to Thailand again on Sunday, with a woman I hardly know, to places I don’t know, to get up to who knows what. Should be interesting. Continue reading

Ode to Whitebait

Look at me, my little treat
Yes you, whom I’m about to eat
You should have swum the other way
You would have lived another day.

Excuse me Mr Morepork

Oh morepork, though you summon me
From sentry post in yonder tree
I wonder what your thoughts would be
If I did eat your family

And there, the lamp post shines so bright
And tempts your dinner to its light
So turn your wee head so I might
Steal all your eggs into the night.

Regards,
The Tuatara

* Mundane explanation bit: A morepork, otherwise known as a Ruru in the Maori language, is a wee nocturnal owl who sounds like he’s saying ‘Morepork! Morepork!’ when he calls. The tuatara, meaning ‘peaks on the back’ in Maori, is a lizard endemic to New Zealand, from a very old species dating back to the dinosaurs. It’s often referred to as a ‘living dinosaur’. I have no idea whether a tuatara would eat a morepork’s eggs, given the chance. I was just being silly.

A Morepork. Photo courtesy of 'in paradise', Flikr.

A Morepork. Photo courtesy of ‘in paradise’, Flikr.

2009 Thailand #2: Train to Chiang Mai and the Scary Bed Lady

The scene of the almost-crime. The swerving hotel driveway upon which our rickshaw driver tried to tip us.

The scene of the almost-crime. The swerving hotel driveway upon which our rickshaw driver tried to tip us.

We’re now in Chiang Mai, having landed this morning after a 14 hour train ride. Just to revisit yesterday’s email, the guy in the speeding bullet tuk tuk was very unhappy with us because I had bartered his price down so much, then he found out that we were staying at an expensive hotel. That’s why he drove like a madman – a) to try and scare us (and possibly fling us out) and b) to get rid of us as fast as possible. His fast driving combined with his illegal driving manoeuvres (how in the heck do you spell that word?) had traffic police blowing their whistles at him like crazy, but he just ignored them and carried on.That combined with the railway line scenario (complete with traffic piling up behind us, beeping their horns like mad ‘cos they were now stuck on the tracks, the train barping it’s horn and the barrier bells nutting off,) made us feel like we’d just been thrown into the middle of a Jackie Chan movie. We’re still wondering if the police caught our speeding tuk tuk man on the way back and gave him a ticket. Continue reading

2009 Thailand #1: So Far, So Crazy

Good ol' Kao San Road culture.

Good ol’ Kao San Road culture.

After a very long flight, several wines (maybe one too many, but I only did that to help me sleep – honest!), and approximately four hours after we lost all feeling in our backsides, we got to Bangkok. Cripes that’s a big airport! We really wanted to pinch one of the golf-carts the staff drive around in there, but being deported immediately would not have fitted in with our plans, so we walked and used the Jetsons-style moving footpaths instead. Continue reading